- Laser yourself
- Equipment
- 3D printing
- FAQ
- Work areas
Create the desired outlines as a vector in the program of your choice (preferably only lines, no areas). The file format .svg has proven itself and if it can be opened in Inkscape, this is usually a good sign.
Colors: Colors are very useful for differentiating between different work steps (engraving/cutting/marking). It doesn't matter which colors you use as long as they are different colors. We can then assign them freely on the laser (e.g. blue = cutting, orange = engraving, olive green = contour cutting).
ℹ️ The colors can also be used to control the sequence of the work steps: It is helpful if the outer contour is created in a different color than the rest of the file. This allows you to cut (laser) the outer contour last, which is often more accurate as the part moves slightly when it is cut out
Important for cut-outs:
When cutting, all unconnected inner parts fall out. Example: In the case of a "B" without bars, the inner surfaces ("bellies") disappear. The same applies to motifs with closed details such as eyes or patterns - these must be held in place by small connections (bars), otherwise they will be lost after cutting. Template lettering or manual bars help here.
The following materials, among others, can be processed well with our CO₂ laser:
ℹ️ Note on plywood:
Not all plywood can be lasered equally well:
⚠️ Note on greyboard:
Greyboard is only suitable to a limited extent due to its dense structure, adhesive residue and strong smoke development - it is difficult to cut cleanly and often leaves burnt edges.
Better alternatives are
🚫 What doesn't work?
❓ Unsure about the material?
If in doubt, please ask first - we'll help you!
You can also find a good overview here:
Yes, that works well! It is important to first check carefully whether it really is genuine leather or just artificial leather with PVC. PVC develops chlorine when lasered, which is a poisonous gas and must therefore not be lasered